Dog Training
STAGE 1 - PUPPY TRAINING: Home training, Crate training, Leash skills, Socialization.
STAGE 2 - ADULT DOG TRAINING: Command Words- Come, Sit, Down, Stay.
STAGE 3 - LIFE TRAINING: Sign Language, Voice Control, Fire Drills.

This is the time when puppies and young dogs learn the basic skills of life with humans.  They learn not to mess in the house, possibly to use a crate, to walk well on-leash, and to behave properly in social situations.  Odds are your puppy will know their name, "Good" and "No" without any real effort at training those ideas on your part.  They learn from experience, and in just one day a puppy can hear their name, "Good" and "No" many times over, often with lots of meaningful inflection to learn from.  They are smart little creatures!  Use whatever words you choose to correct and praise your dog consistently from the beginning.

Home Training:
The absolute first thing your dog needs to understand is that there is no pooping or peeing in the house.  Fortunately nature is on your side- it goes against a dog's instinct to mess where they live.  You've got to be patient, they are not always physically able to control themselves at first.  The key here is scheduling and regularity. 

1.  Figure out when you'll be feeding your dog and establish a set feeding schedule- your Veterinarian is the best one to ask if you're not sure what is appropriate. 

2.  Within a few minutes after eating, get your dog outside.  Puppies especially will need to go out right away; eating gets their whole system started.  Keep them out until they "go", then give lots of praise.

3.  Get your dog outside first thing in the morning, last thing at night, and as often as possible in between.  An adult dog can go out as few as four times a day, but for puppies or dogs being housebroken you cannot get them out enough.  Praise them when they "go" outside.

4.  Keep your dog in a small area- one room, preferably with easily cleaned floors is ideal.  Clean all messes immediately, eliminating odors as best you can. 

5.  When your puppy has an accident and you catch them in the act:  say "No" in a firm tone (no yelling) and immediately take the dog outside, praise if they "go" outside.

6.  When you don't catch them, but just find a surprise:  Point at the accident and say "No" once or twice.  Take the dog outside, praise if they "go" outside.  Clean it up well, take a deep breath, and let it go...

Crate Training:
A crate is not a cage, it is a room for your dog, an indoor dog house that is the dog's private, safe place.  If you treat it that way they will love it and use it for life.  Dogs like having spaces to themselves- we know many dogs that sleep under the coffee table, in a nook between furniture, or in some other quiet corner.  It is in their nature to find a snug den, and a crate can be that den.  Most owners we know remove the door from the crate after the dog has matured beyond destructive teething and is house-trained reliably, and the dogs invariably still use their crates voluntarily.  Everyone likes having their own room! 

1.  Make the crate comfortable with bedding, toys, etc...

2.  Introduce the crate by feeding your puppy in the crate, at the back of the crate so they have to walk in all the way to eat or get a treat.  Leave the door open so they can come out after they finish, and use lots of praise.  Always feed them in the crate at first, it will build a positive association for the dog.

3.  Get a good bone or chewing toy that your puppy will love; put it in the crate, let your puppy go in, close the door and leave the room.  Don't say goodbye or make a big deal out of it, just do it.  Regardless of the puppy's reaction, stay quiet and away for at least 15 minutes or until the puppy relaxes a bit; then come back in, open the crate, give some praise and go for a walk or outside.  Repeat with longer intervals.

• Dogs and puppies alike cannot be crated for more than four hours without a walk or yard break.

Leash Skills:
The ultimate goal of leash training is to have your dog walk with you and not pull hard on the leash.  Walking should be fun, not a struggle.  The younger you start the easier it is, but any dog can be a good leash dog.  We like harnesses better than collars for walking all dogs, especially dogs that pull a lot.  Collars are great for identification tags, but we've found harnesses to be a better, gentler tool for training.  We do not recommend choker collars or "gentle" leaders for companion animals.  With a harness you can safely pull your dog out of dangerous situations without hurting the neck and throat, and for on leash hiking it gives you a solid connection to recall your dog incase they stray off trail, jump into water, or find some other doggy trouble.  You wouldn't use a rock climbing collar instead of a climbing harness, it's the same idea.  For training a standard six foot leash is easiest, and for general walking a good quality retractable leash can alleviate most pulling issues. 

1.  Leash up the dog, and make a big fun production out of it if you'd like.  Walking should be fun!  When you first leave the house you need to accept a certain amount of excitement, especially early on.  Time and repetition take the novelty away and dogs naturally relax a bit as they mature, you just have to be patient.  Dogs learn to walk with you by walking with you, and it takes time and miles to get it right.

2.  As you walk maintain an even pace that you are comfortable with.  Be consistent about your walking style, let your dog adapt to you.  Your dog will pull towards things, some you will allow and some you won't.  It is really up to you what those things are, just be consistent about what you choose to allow.  When it is something you don't want them to go to don't react verbally or dramatically, but do not allow the dog to pull towards what they want by maintaining a firm grip on the leash and continuing walking at the same pace. 

• Try not to jerk the leash but rather use firm, unyielding pressure in the correct direction, relaxing when the dog is on the right path.  No praise or rewards, and no punishments or corrections are required.  This is a non-negotiable situation where your dog just has to act a certain way, much like when we drive our cars.

• For stronger dogs try holding the leash low, by your hips, hands apart and gripping the leash tightly.  Use your hips to drive your motion, your hands are just holding the leash in front of your body. 

• When a strong dog pulls and you must react, hold the leash low, use both hands close together, and pull down and to the side- don't fight the dog in a straight line, that is their strongest angle, bio-mechanically.  Holding the leash low changes the leverage on the harness in your favor.

• You want your dog to realize that there is no reward for pulling and that they must follow you- you are in charge of the walk, but in a nice, firm and fun way. 

• Don't get frustrated and don't allow your walks to become a struggle.  Don't use verbal corrections for this training if you can help it.  Consistently show your dog what you want and they will eventually learn, and walking will become a fun time for both of you.

Socialization:
This is the fun part, especially if you've got some leash skills in place.  It is not really training, more like conditioning, and is a crucial step if you want your dog to be comfortable with their role in the world and trust worthy in social situations. Simply put, take your dog places.  Everywhere you can.  Dog parks are great, as are pet-friendly stores, hiking trails, parks, just about anywhere.  Training classes are fun and a great way to meet other dog owners.  Let people and other dogs say hello as often as possible.  People love dogs, especially puppies, and having your dog meet people and pets and experience the world is a fun, rewarding time for both of you.   A well socialized dog is a joy, and the emotional and developmental maturity your dog gets from it makes all other aspects of training easier.

• The biggest issue we see in this phase is jumping.  Puppies and some dogs will jump on people for attention.  Attention is the reward.  The solution is to make jumping a non-rewarding behavior.  Stop petting and play immediately when your dog jumps; push the dog down firmly but gently, using the harness if needed.  Don't make direct eye contact with the dog until all four paws are on the ground.  If you'd like, you can bend down to the dog's level and continue petting and play where they won't need to jump to reach you.  Repeat as needed, and be patient.

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